Gunkanjima, a Captivating Cruise to an Abandoned Island in Japan
Hashima (端島), also known as Gunkanjima (which literally means 'battleship island'), is an abandoned island located around 18km from the port of Nagasaki (長崎市), one of Kyushu's main cities.
Interested in abandoned places in general, and having always been fascinated in the ways nature reclaims its rights once humans have disappeared, I was very curious to visit Gunkanjima during my next stay to Nagasaki. I'd like to share my experience of this unusual and off-the-beaten-track attraction in this article.
A Quick Introduction to Gunkanjima
Gunkanjima is a small island that flourished as a bustling coal mining community starting in 1890. Bought by Mitsubishi Corporation, the island was developed as production increased, and large residential and industrial buildings were constructed, as well as dykes to protect the community from bad weather. At its peak, more than 5,000 people lived on the 480 metres long and 150 metres wide island, which represents the highest population density ever recorded in the world! After the mine was closed in 1974, the residents left and Gunkanjima became a deserted island.
Since it was abandoned, regular typhoons have degraded the remaining buildings, adding to the mysterious and haunting atmosphere of the island. Gunkanjima was opened to tourists in 2009 and later named a UNESCO world heritage site in 2015. As I researched the island’s background for this article, I also learnt about the controversial history of Gunkanjima associated with the use of forced labor prior and during WWII, which you can read more about in this article by The Guardian.
It is possible to visit a small part of the island in an organized tour, with two departures per day (morning and afternoon) from a few locations in Nagasaki Port. Tours typically take about three hours, including 45min to 1 hour spent on the island itself. You should be aware that in case of high waves or bad weather, it may be impossible to land on the island or boats may not operate at all. Also, it is not possible to enter the buildings for safety reasons, and you must stay on a marked path.
Several companies offer such boat tours to Gunkanjima for about ¥4000-¥5000 per person, such as Gunkanjima Concierge, Gunkanjima Cruise and Yamasa Shipping. Prior booking is recommended.
Sharing my Experience of Visiting Gunkanjima
Seeing and learning more about Gunkanjima was on my Japan bucket list and one of the highlights of my last visit to Nagasaki. I decided to book a boat tour with Gunkanjima Concierge (costing ¥5,000 per adult for a tour on a weekday + a ¥310 boarding fee).
The main reason I chose this company was that it included the visit of the Gunkanjima Digital Museum (while the museum entrance alone costs ¥1,800) and I was eager to find out more about the island before the actual visit. The boarding location (a few minutes' walk from the Gunkanjima Digital Museum) was also convenient, as I was staying in an airbnb nearby.
Learning About the “Battleship Island” at the Gunkanjima Digital Museum
Having booked the morning boat tour departing at 10:30, I arrived at Gunkanjima Digital Museum at around 9am as it was recommended by Gunkanjima Concierge. I was pleasantly surprised by the good introduction into the history and context of Gunkanjima, through interactive displays, videos and exhibits as well as a short VR experience.
It took me 30 to 45 minutes to explore the museum at a leisurely pace, and with explanations translated in English as well as audioguides available.
All Aboard for Gunkanjima!
After visiting the museum, the staff invite you to walk to the Gunkanjima concierge office (a two-minute walk away), where you can rest in the waiting room and use the toilets before boarding the boat.
It was at this point, as I recall, that an employee handed me a thick folder full of explanations about the upcoming tour and Gunkanjima. Indeed, as the island tour is in Japanese, and although I speak and understand Japanese, I was very pleased with the amount of information provided in this guide written for non-Japanese.
The boat ride from Nagasaki to Gunkanjima was also very pleasant and offers great views of the city of Nagasaki and its harbour. It takes around 50 minutes to reach Gunkanjima, and the boat passes the large Mitsubishi shipbuilding factories and other islands along the way. Before docking, the boat circles the island, allowing you to see it from different angles.
Once you've disembarked at the landing stage, the guides take you to three observation decks along the southern end of the island. During 45 minutes on the island, while the guides provided explanations, I let my mind wander in the eerie atmosphere that emanated from the remains of this small industrial town.
To Conclude
I enjoyed my visit to Gunkanjima and would recommend it to travellers interested in ruins and attractions off the beaten track. The tour with Gunkanjima Concierge was well-organized and very informative.
If you decide to go, please keep in mind that there is a chance cruise companies cancel tours due to bad weather, even on the day of the tour or while you're on board, because Gunkanjima is surrounded by dangerous waters.
Looking for more things to do in Nagasaki? You can read my article “Nagasaki Guide: Top Things to Do And 3-Day Itinerary”.
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