Suwa Itinerary: Complete Travel Guide to Nagano’s Best-Kept Secret
I’m excited to introduce a place in Nagano Prefecture that quickly became one of my favorite destinations in Japan: Suwa (諏訪). This peaceful area which surrounds Lake Suwa is unknown to most international travelers, but it offers so much—natural hot springs, stunning lake views, some of Japan’s oldest shrines, and a quiet and rural charm that I find truly special.
I first came across Suwa because of its connection to the movie Your Name (or ‘Kimi no Nawa’), as Lake Suwa inspired the fictional Lake Itomori. Curious, I planned a short weekend trip from Tokyo, but ended up liking it so much that I returned for a full week in summer. I loved the slow pace and quiet streets, the beautiful nature and historic shrines, and how convenient it was as a base to explore nearby areas in Nagano and Gifu Prefectures.
In this guide, I’ll share everything I learned from spending about 10 days in Suwa, from what to do and where to stay, to local food spots and lesser-known experiences that you shouldn’t miss.
Why Visit Suwa
Suwa has that peaceful lakeside town vibe that I particularly love in Japan: a place where you can truly slow down, soak in the quiet, and recharge. It reminded me a bit of Lake Chuzenji in Nikko, but with even fewer tourists and a more lived-in feel. At the same time, it’s not just about relaxing. Suwa is packed with things to do, whether you’re into nature walks, Japanese castles, hot springs or historic shrines.
It’s also a must-visit location for fans of Your Name, as Lake Suwa inspired the setting of the fictional Lake Itomori in Makoto Shinkai’s film.
But beyond that connection, the town has a rich cultural heritage. Every seven years, Suwa hosts one of Japan’s most unique and ancient festivals, the Onbashira Festival (御柱祭 or Onbashira-sai), where massive logs are ceremoniously hauled down the mountain and erected at the four shrines of Suwa Taisha. The next festival is scheduled for April 2028.
In summer, Suwa also organizes every August 15 one of Japan’s most spectacular fireworks displays, the Suwa Lake Fireworks Festival, which draws hundreds of thousands of spectators. The show is massive, with over 40,000 fireworks shot over two hours from launch pads erected on the lake.
How to Get to Suwa
Thanks to its location, Suwa is easy to reach from Tokyo and makes for a great weekend escape. It’s also a great addition to any Nagano travel itinerary, especially if you’re visiting the nearby Matsumoto city (松本).
From Tokyo: The most convenient option is the JR Limited Express Azusa, which departs from Shinjuku Station and takes you directly to Kami-Suwa Station (上諏訪駅) in under 2.5 hours (costs ¥5,980 one-way). The train ride is especially scenic once you leave the Tokyo suburbs, with views of mountains, rice paddies, countryside homes, and small villages tucked into the hillsides as you enter Nagano. This route is covered by the Japan Rail Pass and the JR East Nagano Niigata Area Pass. If you’re looking for a more budget-friendly option, know that an express bus service also operates from Shinjuku.
From Matsumoto: Suwa is just a short train ride away. You can take a local JR train on the Shinonoi Line from Matsumoto Station to Kami-Suwa Station, which takes approximately 40 minutes (and costs ¥590) or alternatively the JR Limited Express Azuka (takes about 20 minutes and costs ¥1,350). Trains run frequently throughout the day, making it easy to plan a day trip or continue your journey through Nagano Prefecture.
Best Things to Do in Suwa
Walk Around Lake Suwa and Catch a Glimpse of Mt. Fuji
One of the best ways to experience Suwa is by walking or cycling the 16 km path that loops around Lake Suwa (諏訪湖). The route is flat and easy to follow, passing quiet parks, fishing piers, outdoor sculptures and places where you can spot local birdlife, such as egrets. On a clear day, you can even spot Mount Fuji from the north shore of the lake, around Mizube Park (みずべ公園).
I especially enjoyed walking the section from the north of the lake (get off at Shimo-Suwa Station and walk for about 15-20 minutes to the lakeshore) to Kamisuwa, a peaceful 4-5 km stretch that took me about an hour with stops along the way. My favorite place to pause was Suwa Lakeside Park (諏訪市湖畔公園) in Kami-Suwa—perfect for a snack break and just watching the light change on the water.
Take a Scenic Boat Trip on Lake Suwa
For a different perspective of Lake Suwa, you can hop on a sightseeing boat cruise. The short ride offers beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and lakeside towns. Boats depart from Suwa Lakeside Park, and tickets can be purchased at the Suwako Kanko Kisen counter. The cruise lasts about 30 minutes and costs ¥1,100. You can check the current schedule here (website in Japanese).
Soak in a Lakeside Onsen and Try the Footbaths
Kamisuwa onsen (上諏訪温泉) is famous for its lakeside hot springs, with many ryokans offering open-air baths overlooking Lake Suwa. Even if you’re not staying overnight, you can still enjoy the experience at public onsen like Katakurakan (片倉館), a Showa-era bathhouse known for its marble tubs and historic charm (entrance costs ¥850).
In addition, don’t miss the free foot baths (called ashiyu in Japanese) around town, especially the one at Suwa Lakeside Park (湖畔公園 足湯). Soaking my feet there after a long walk along the lake was the perfect way to unwind. There’s also a convenient onsen foot bath right inside Kami-Suwa Station, making it a fun and relaxing way to start or end your visit to Suwa.
Ashiyu at Suwa Lakeside Park
Ashiyu inside Kami-Suwa station
Visit Takashima Castle and the Surrounding Gardens
Takashima Castle (高島城) is a reconstructed Edo-era fortress that once stood surrounded by the waters of Lake Suwa, earning it the nickname of “Floating Castle”. Today, it’s a historical spot with lovely views and a quiet charm. Inside, the first two floors house a small museum, while the third floor offers a panoramic view from the observation deck.
Admission is ¥310, and it’s open from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm (extended to 5:30 pm from April to September). The castle is set within Takashima Park (高島公園), which is especially beautiful in spring during the cherry blossom season and in autumn when the leaves change colors. The park also features small shrines and walking paths, perfect for a relaxed afternoon stroll.
Hike to Tateishi Park for a Magnificent View Over the Lake
If you’re up for a light hike, head to Tateishi Park, a scenic viewpoint overlooking the entire lake. The walk to the park takes about 30 minutes but does climb a bit: it’s absolutely worth it for the stunning panoramic view, which you might recognize in the anime Your Name.
During my two visits to Suwa, I went to Tateishi Park each time, once in the middle of the day and once at sunset, each time offering very different atmospheres. One of my fondest memories in Suwa is the evening picnic I enjoyed with my husband, admiring the view of the lake in the golden hour and waiting for the sun to set.
➡️ You can read in more details about my experience walking to Tateishi Park from Kami-Suwa station in my article: Walking to Tateishi Park, a Real-Life ‘Your Name’ Anime Location in Suwa.
Visit the Four Shrines of Suwa Taisha
Suwa Taisha Shimosha Harumiya
Suwa is home to one of Japan’s oldest shrine complexes: Suwa Taisha, made up of four shrines around the lake divided in two pairs. The two Lower Shrines are located on the north side of the lake above Shimo-Suwa station: Suwa Taisha Shimosha Harumiya (諏訪大社 下社 春宮) and Suwa Taisha Shimosha Akimiya (諏訪大社 下社 秋宮). The two Upper Shrines are located to the south of Suwa Lake in Chino city: Suwa Taisha Kamisha Maemiya (諏訪大社 上社 前宮) and Suwa Taisha Kamisha Honmiya (諏訪大社 上社 本宮). Each has its own character with old torii gates, sacred trees, and a quiet atmosphere. You don't have to visit them all in one day, but if you're a shrine lover like me, you might find it interesting to make a pilgrimage to all four shrines and collect goshuin at each of them.
Suwa Taisha Shimosha Akimiya
Suwa Taisha Kamisha Maemiya
Suwa Taisha Kamisha Honmiya
➡️ You can read about my experience of visiting these four shrines in my dedicated article, with a suggested walking itinerary with hidden places not to be missed along the way: Discover Suwa Taisha: Walking Itineraries for Shrine Lovers and Goshuin Collectors.
Discover Smaller Shrines and Temples Hidden Around Town
Moss-covered pathway to Jiun-ji temple
Beyond the famous shrines, Suwa is dotted with small, atmospheric shrines and temples. If you also enjoy discovering shrines and temples like I do, here are two of them I’d recommend you to visit:
Jiun-ji (慈雲寺), a beautiful and peaceful temple with a moss-covered pathway and a little pond, located nearby Suwa Taisha Shimosha Harumiya;
Hokuto Shrine (北斗神社), a little shrine perched on a hillside at the end of a steep staircase with views over Chino city and the Suwa area, next to Suwa Taisha Kamisha Honmiya.
Enjoy an Evening Walk in Suwa and Fireworks Over the Lake (in Summer)
Summer evenings in Suwa are magical. On top of the huge fireworks festival on August 15, small fireworks displays light up the sky every evening for around 15 minutes, from late July to the end of August, as part of the Lake Suwa Summer Night Firework Festival. Lanterns were also lit around the town, adding to the summer festival atmosphere, and guests from nearby ryokans stroll in yukata along the lake promenade after dinner, waiting for the small firework display. Every evening during the week I spent in Suwa, I went to the lakeside to admire the fireworks, or I saw them from my room at Kamisuwa Onsen Hamanoyu, the ryokan where I was staying. It was a moment of pure Japanese summer magic!
Komeikan street in Kami-Suwa
Feeling for Some More Exploring? Museums and Other Ideas
If you have more time in Suwa or are looking for more activity ideas, here are a few more to consider. I didn’t get the chance to visit these myself, so I don’t have personal photos or tips to share, but they’re on my list for next time:
Honjin Hiwanami House (下諏訪宿本陣岩波家): A historic house known for its beautiful gardens (selected as one of the best 100 gardens in Japan).
Onbashira-kan Yoisa (おんばしら館 よいさ): A small museum where you can learn more about the Onbashira Festival.
Suwa Geyser Center (諏訪湖間欠泉センター): A quirky lakeside stop with a manmade geyser located nearby the Suwa Lakeside Park foot bath. You can buy geyser-boiled eggs and see small exhibits introducing movies and dramas shot in the Suwa area.
Kitazawa Museum of Art (北澤美術館): A quiet museum near the lake with a collection of Art Nouveau glassworks and Japanese contemporary paintings, with a little souvenir shop and café.
Garasu-no-Sato (ガラスの里): A glass-themed village with shops, glass craft workshops, and exhibits (museum admission fee of ¥770).
Local Breweries: Suwa is known for its sake, and there are several historic breweries in the area that offer tastings or short tours, like Masumi (宮坂醸造), Reijin (麗人酒造) or Maihime (舞姫). For instance, you can do a self-guided sake tour in Suwa, which allows you for ¥3000 to enjoy sake-tasting at five breweries in Suwa. You can register for the tour online or directly at the Suwa City Tourism Information Center in JR Kami-Suwa station.
Okaya Silk Museum (岡谷蚕糸博物館 シルクファクトおかや): A museum dedicated to the Japanese silk industry located in Okaya city (岡谷市).
Top Travel Tips to Make the Most of You Time in Suwa
Best Time to Visit Suwa and How Long to Stay
Suwa is a year-round destination, with something to offer in every season. Spring brings cherry blossoms around Takashima Castle and the lakeside parks. Summer is one of the most festive times to visit, with nightly fireworks shows over Lake Suwa from late July through August, culminating with the Suwa Lake Fireworks Festival, held every year since 1949 on August 15. During this time, accommodations fill up fast, so if you plan to visit for the festival, book your stay as early as possible. In autumn, the lake and surrounding hills transform with colorful foliage, perfect for hikes or scenic strolls. And in winter, if the lake freezes over completely, you might witness the mysterious Omiwatari (御神渡り)—cracks that appear across the frozen surface of Lake Suwa, believed to be the path of the gods crossing from one shrine to another. Sadly, this phenomenon is becoming rarer to observe due to the effects of climate change.
As there’s a lot to see and do, I’d recommend staying at least 2-3 days to explore Suwa, especially if you want to enjoy the hot springs, shrines, and lakeside walks at a relaxed pace. And this article only covers part of the Suwa area, focusing on Shimo-Suwa, Kami-Suwa and the Suwa Taisha shrines in Chino city.
Where to Stay in Suwa
The two times I visited Suwa, I’ve stayed at Kamisuwa Onsen Hamanoyu (浜の湯), a large ryokan with hot spring facilities in Kamisuwa onsen, simply because I had a wonderful experience there. The interior is magnificent, and the staff embody the best of omotenashi, Japanese hospitality. The hotel has a large indoor and outdoor onsen area with several baths and sauna, perfect for relaxing after a day of walking or hiking. The room I stayed in was a large, comfortable Japanese-style room with a wonderful view of Lake Suwa, which meant I could even watch the summer fireworks directly from my room. The lobby is a calm and lovely space to relax. There is a little shop in the hotel where you can buy omiyage and you have the option of including a kaiseki dinner or Japanese-style breakfast with local produce.
➡️ You can book your stay at Kamisuwa Onsen Hamanoyu on Agoda, Booking or Trip.
Looking for more accommodations options in Suwa? You can check more options and availability of accommodation in the area on Agoda, Booking or Trip.
What and Where to Eat in Suwa
Suwa is a great place to try local Nagano specialties, like soba noodles, shinshu miso, freshwater eel, and locally brewed sake. In particular, there are several izakayas and casual eateries around Kami-Suwa Station. Here are three places I tried and can warmly recommend:
秋月そば本店 – A casual eatery that was perfect for a hearty dinner, with different meal sets including soba needles or Japanese curry.
Izumiya (いづみや) – A restaurant where I had an excellent miso tendon (tempura rice bowl).
鳥梅やきとりコーナー – A local yakitori spot with flavorful skewers. I got a generous take-out plate to enjoy in my hotel room while watching the fireworks. It’s located on a lively street with several other izakayas.
If you'd like to sample some local snacks or take home some omiyage, I'd also recommend visiting the souvenir shop at Kami-Suwa station, which had a great selection of products.
Other Things to Do Around
Suwa is also a great base to explore more of Nagano Prefecture. You can easily take a day trip to:
Matsumoto – Just 40 minutes away by train, home to one of Japan’s most beautiful castle, a museum dedicated to the world-famous artist Yayoi Kusama, and more. I’ll write an article on Matsumoto in the future. If you’d like to read it, don’t hesitate to subscribe to my free monthly newsletter to know when it will be published.
Nagano City – Visit Zenkoji Temple, explore traditional shopping streets, or head to the lesser-known samurai town Matsushiro, which you can learn about in my article A Half-Day Trip to Matsushiro, A Samurai Town in Nagano.
Nakasendo Trail – During my week's stay in Suwa, I walked two sections of the historic Nakasendo, which are among my favourite walks in Japan. You can read more about these hikes in my two articles:
Final Thoughts on Suwa
Whether you're attracted by lake views, ancient shrines, soothing hot springs or seasonal events, Suwa is a little-explored area of Nagano that has so much to offer! It's a place where you can slow down and soak up the peaceful, rural atmosphere, while still having plenty to do. I hope my article will inspire you to add Suwa to your Japan travel bucket list, whether as part of a trip to Nagano Prefecture or if you're looking to get away from Tokyo for a weekend.
Found this article helpful? Buy me a coffee. 😊
Want to stay in touch? Subscribe to my monthly newsletter (with latest articles, updates, travel tips and more...) delivered straight to your inbox. 📩
Some of the links in this Suwa Itinerary are affiliate links. At no extra cost to you, I may earn a small commission when you click on them and make a purchase. And if you do, thanks for your support! Purchasing through these links is a great way to support Travely Notes, as this helps with the costs of running my blog.
