Yufuin Itinerary: an Ideal Hot Spring Retreat in Kyushu
Let me share with you one of my absolute favourites in Japan: Yufuin (湯布院), in Oita Prefecture, Kyushu. In my opinion, this charming countryside town should be on any itinerary if you decide to explore Kyushu, Japan’s third largest island.
This onsen town, which is less well-known than the neighbouring Beppu Onsen, has an enchanting landscape with Mount Yufu in the background, peaceful rice fields and a tranquil river flowing through it. It's like being in a fairy tale. Yufuin is perfect for a relaxing night's sleep.
How to Get to Yufuin
There are different transport options depending on where you are coming from.
From Beppu/Oita:
By train: From Beppu, go to Oita station and take a second train to Yufuin. Depending on whether you take the express train or the local train, the journey takes between 60 and 90 minutes and costs between ¥2,160 and ¥3,400.
By bus: Bus 36 picks you up at Beppu station and takes you to Yufuin in less than 55 minutes for ¥940. As you can see, it's cheaper and quicker, so you're better off taking the bus!
From Fukuoka:
By train: You can take the scenic "Yufuin-no-Mori" Limited Express Train, which costs ¥7,770 and takes 2 hours and 15 minutes.
By bus: There is a direct bus between Fukuoka and Yufuin costing ¥3,250, which takes you to Yufuin in 2 hours and 40 minutes.
The first time I visited Yufuin, I did it by train from Fukuoka, and the second time by car, and I have to say that doing a roadtrip by car in Kyushu was an excellent decision (I'll be writing an article dedicated to my 12-day trip to Kyushu in the future).
Things to Do in Yufuin
Take a Stroll Down Yunostubo Street
Yufuin's Yunotsubo street is one of the cutest streets I've seen in Japan. It's full of little restaurants, cafés and food stalls, as well as craft shops. Everywhere you look there are cute decorations and it's great fun to walk around, visit the little souvenir shops and take photos, with Mount Yufu in the background. The street is about 1.2 km long and leads to Lake Kinrin, which I'll describe later.
Go on a Local Food Hunt
An important part of sightseeing in Japan is trying out the local specialities by making the rounds of the various food stalls to sample a bunch of mouth-watering snacks. You'll find plenty of options in and around Yunotsubo Street for doing just that.
Below are photos of the snacks that caught our eye, but there are other Yufuin specialities you might want to try, such as Yufuin Kinsho Croquettes (湯布院金賞コロッケ) or Purindora (dorayaki with pudding instead of red bean paste) at the Yufuin Hanakoji Kikiya sweet shop (御菓子司 花麹菊家).
If you want a proper meal, there are also several restaurants around the main street. Here's a photo of the lunch I had at 元祖豊後肉汁うどん. The restaurant was nice with a small terrace at the entrance and I got to try Kabosu udon for the first time.
Shop in the Cutest Little Shops
First of all, as a huge Ghibli fan, I have to say that I think this Donguri No Mori shop (どんぐりの森 由布院店), the official Ghibli merchandise shop, is my favourite in Japan. The shop is at the beginning of Yunotsubo Street, so you can't miss it. There was such a variety of products and the shop was super cute. Watch out for your wallet!
There are lots of craft shops along the main street, where you can buy souvenirs, but two shops in particular caught my eye: the dog shop (ゆふいんの犬家敷) and the cat shop (由布院の猫屋敷) nearby each other, both of which specialize in items representing our canine and feline friends.
Another shop I really liked was ガラスの森, a shop dedicated to glass artworks, with so many adorable decorations.
Visit Yufuin Floral Village
A visit to Yufuin Floral Village (湯布院フローラルビレッジ) is a must. This mini theme park is inspired by the villages of the Cotswolds in England. It is one of the cutest places I have seen. The village is packed with things to do, from visiting a mini-farm, an owl forest zoo and a cat café, to shopping in one of the many shops (including one stocked with Ghibli products), and taking photos every few seconds.
Enjoy the Beauty and Serenity of Lake Kinrin and the Surrounding Countryside
Once you reach the end of Yunotsubo Street, you'll find yourself just a few minutes' walk from Lake Kinrin (金鱗湖). The walk around the lake offers magnificent views, with the lake's clear waters and koi fish, lush greenery and torii gate.
There are benches near Tenso Shrine (天祖神社) on the right side of the lake, and one of my best memories of Yufuin was sitting on one, watching the cormorant birds surveying the lake from the top of the torii gate, while enjoying a good book.
After a walk around Lake Kinrin, I recommend you take a different route back, following the small canal that runs from the lake to join the great river Oita. Along the way, you'll come across cranes in the river, as well as traditional farms and rice paddies. It's a beautiful walk!
Soak in an Onsen and/or Stay Overnight in a Traditional Ryokan
The Yufuin hot springs have the second highest water flow of any onsen in Japan and are renowned for their beneficial effects on neuralgia, myalgia, arthritis and fatigue. There are many traditional ryokans dotted around the area and you can enjoy the baths as a day visitor or stay overnight in a traditional Japanese hotel.
On my first visit, I went to Yama-No-Hotel Musouen (山のホテル夢想園) as a day visitor and was fascinated by the magnificent view from this open-air bath.
View of the open-air onsen for women
At the time, I promised myself that if I had the opportunity to return to Yufuin, I would spend a night there, which I did on my second visit with my husband! During our stay, we stayed in a traditional room with futons, had a delicious kaiseki dinner and breakfast, and we could enjoy the open-air onsen and other private onsen as much as we wanted. It was fabulous!
Appetizers at the dinner
Breakfast
In addition to Yama-No-Hotel Musouen, there are so many options where to stay in Yufuin, that can offer relaxing hot springs, stunning views of Mount Yufu, and authentic Japanese ryokan experiences. If I were to stay again, based on reviews and close proximity to popular sights, I’d recommend Yufuin Lamp no Yado for its cozy atmosphere and modern amenities with easy access to Yufuin Floral Village, and Ryoso Yufuin Yamadaya for its traditional ryokan charm and peaceful hot springs with views of Mount Yufu.
Feeling for Some More Exploring? Hiking and Museums Ideas
Here are some additional ideas of things to do in Yufuin if you have the time or depending on the weather. I do not have pictures to show or tips to share as I didn’t do them myself.
Visit one of the many museums in town: Trick 3D Art Yufuin, Yufuin Showa Museum, Comico Art Museum, Yufuin Stained Glass Museum and more…
Tour of the town in a horse-drawn carriage
Hike to the top of Mount Yufu (see the map)
Final Thoughts
If friends ask me which of Japan's lesser-known destinations I recommend they visit, the answer is often Yufuin. This place truly embodies the Japanese countryside at its best, in all its authenticity and serenity.
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